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We have an essential info section looking at how to ID chains – why not take a look by clicking here.

Chains are not measured by stretching them out on a bench and squinting down a tape measure – chains are identified by PITCH, GUAGE and NUMBER OF DRIVE LINKS [no – not the cutting teeth – drive links and you’ll know the difference by even a cursory look at the chain ID link above].

Bars likewise are not measured the same way – manufacturers give them a set ‘length’ which is generally the sticky out bit that comes out of the chainsaw [not including the mount unless in the case of large double ended milling bars which are the exception to the rule and measured end to end].

If that all seems too much like hard work then bear in mind that chainsaws require a lot more attention and care than other power tools. Regard your chainsaw as ‘Excalibur’ with the cutting edge as your chain [please don’t refer to is as a ‘blade’ – it’s a chain. When you look to change it ask for a new ‘chain’ – not a new ‘blade’]. Identifying and being able to use the correct terms will set you apart from others.

Chain sharpening is key – if you cannot use a chain and have it cutting well until the cutters are so small they end up getting knocked off – you have plenty to learn. Watch, research, rinse and repeat. Read our article on chain sharpening by clicking here – often people get caught up in different angles and techniques – but the principles are always the same.

If you are serious about correct maintenance of your bar and chain work your way through the Oregon manual [click here] and after that check out the Stihl equivalent [click here]. Using a chainsaw for 20 years [badly] does not qualify you as an experienced user – so be the change, make the difference and keep educating yourself about these valuable yet dangerous tools.

And finally – why buy a new bar and chain without checking/replacing the drive rim or drive sprocket? [again click here if unsure on what these refer to]. Much as we would enjoy selling you the next bar and chain much earlier than you needed it [a worn sprocket will wear your new chain which will wear your new bar a lot lot faster] – we would rather you got the most out of your purchase.

4.5mm[11/64″] Diamond Coarse – Sharpens .325 Chains [Old Style]

$30.43

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Stock 73
Part Number DS G1164CHPC Part Number DS G1164CHPC Category:

These diamond grinding stones are the best on the market. The price reflects how long they will last for and the quality of the grind they produce. Use coarse for fast stock removal, fine for general sharpening. These stones generate very little heat at the tooth, they maintain their profile, they do not get clogged or loose sharpness. How long do they last? We have yet to wear ours out! We don’t supply the 12v powerpacks so you will need to look online for the 12v car jump starter type and find out the fittings yourself if you wish to go down this route. Yes they will sharpen carbide chains.

‘These stones are far and above any other saw chain grinding stone we ve tested. The unique ABN coating allows you to remove material quickly with very little heat. The greatest thing about these advantages is that they won t lose their diameter while doing so. The ability to keep their diameter will maintain the correct sharpening geometry which leads to efficient cutting capability.’

What our customers say:

‘Hi Rob, cheers for getting the diamond stones and power pack out so quick. I used the power pack to start my Bob cat, which it did. Sharpened my echo, and charged my phone to 85% before it ran out of juice. Impressed.

The course diamond stone is very aggressive, which given the state of my chain, was just the job. These grinding stones are much longer than the Granberg stones, which is better for sharpening.’

Murray Taylor

 

‘I bought the power pack and the fine diamond grinder bit last week, came following day

I’ve not needed to try the jump start feature yet but have given my phone a full charge from 3%

Sharpened a 36″ milling chain today with the new sharpening stone, powered by the power pack.

The stone is a big improvement on the previous type, quite a bit longer which I think helps it run much cooler on the chain. The grinder stone/bit is diamond impregnated steel and holds its profile rather than the other stone bits that wear away and lose profile.

I’m really impressed so far, seems to have speeded up the whole process.

The power pack is really easily connected to the 12v grinder by connecting the crocodile clips over the grinders clips, there’s also a set of connectors in the package so you can adapt the grinder lead to plug into the power pack. Something I’ll try when I have the time.

Overall it’s a great setup, really handy bit of kit!’

Simon Archer

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